Eating is one of life's greatest pleasures for Romans so be adventurous. And, if you're not intimidated by eccentric waiters or indecipherable menus, you might well find yourself agreeing with the locals that nowhere in the world is the food as good as in Rome. Rome offers a pretty good range of eateries: there are some excellent places providing typical Roman fare to suit a range of budgets, as well as some good, but usually fairly expensive, restaurants offering international cuisine such as Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Argentine.
Roman Cuisine
The roots of Roman food are in the diet of the poor and offal has always been an important ingredient. Historically, the ordinary folk ate the quinto quarto (fifth quarter) of the animal, which was all that was left after the rich had taken their pickings. Offal eaters shouldn't miss the opportunity to try coda (oxtail) or trippa (tripe) here, where they are done best. If you can stomach it, try the pasta pajata, made with the entrails of very young veal calves, considered a delicacy since they contain the mother's congealed milk.
Deep frying, which has its origins in Jewish cooking, is another important feature of Roman cuisine. Deep-fried fillets of baccalà (salted cod), fiori di zucca (courgette flowers) stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies, and carciofi alla giudia (artichokes) are a must on any Roman gastronomic itinerary, whether they be eaten as a snack, as a prelude to a pizza or as a course in themselves. In recent years fish has become an important fixture on the menus of Rome's better eateries. More often than not it is grilled whole and then filleted by the waiter at the table. It is, however, more expensive than any other main course.
A word of warning for fish eaters: unless you're eating at one of the city's top restaurants, only order it on Tuesday or Friday when the markets sell it fresh. Antipasto dishes (starters) in Rome are particularly good and many restaurants allow you to make your own mixed selection from a buffet. Roman meat dishes to look out for are saltimbocca alla Romana, a thin fillet of veal topped with a slice of prosciutto crudo (cured ham), white wine and sage, and abbacchio al forno, spring lamb roasted with rosemary and garlic - an Easter favourite.
Try these vegetable dishes: carciofi alla Romana, artichokes stuffed with mint or parsley and garlic; a salad of curly puntarelle (Catalonian chicory) tossed in a garlic, olive oil and anchovy dressing; and in spring, freshly shelled fave (broad beans) served with a slice of pecorino Romano, the most famous pecorino (sheep's milk) cheese. The city's neighbourhoods have their own specialities. Testaccio, home of the former slaughterhouse which is now used as a social centre and live music venue, is still known as THE place to go for an authentic Roman dining experience.
Where to Eat Eateries are divided into several categories. A tavola calda (literally 'hot table') usually offers cheap, pre-prepared pasta, meat and vegetable dishes in a self-service style. A rosticceria usually offers cooked meats but often has a larger selection of takeaway food. A pizzeria will of course serve pizza, but usually also a full menu including antipasto, pasta, meat and vegetable dishes. An enoteca is a specialist wine shop which also serves wine by the glass (or bottle), light snacks (such as cheeses or cold meats) and often a couple of hot dishes. An osteria is likely to be either a wine bar offering a small selection of dishes or a small trattoria. A trattoria is a cheaper version of a ristorante (restaurant), which in turn has a wider selection of dishes and a higher standard of service.
The problem is that many of the establishments that are in fact restaurants call themselves trattorie or osterie for reasons best known to themselves. It is advisable to check the menu, usually posted by the door, for prices. Don't judge the quality of a ristorante or trattoria by its appearance. You are likely to eat your most memorable meal at a place with plastic tablecloths in a tiny back street, on a dingy square or on a back road in the country. And don't panic if you find yourself in a trattoria which has no printed menu: they are often the ones which offer outstanding, authentic food and have menus that change daily to accommodate the availability of fresh produce. Just hope that the waiter will patiently explain the dishes and cost. After lunch and dinner, head for the nearest gelateria (ice-cream parlour) to round off the meal with some excellent gelati, followed by a digestivo (after-dinner liqueur) at a bar. For a light lunch or a snack, most bars serve tramezzini (sandwiches) and panini (rolls).
Another option is to go to one of the many alimentari (delicatessens) and ask them to make a panino with the filling (usually cold meats and cheeses) of your choice. At a pasticcerìa you can buy pastries, cakes and biscuits. Bakeries (forni), numerous in the Campo de' Fiori area, are another good choice for a cheap snack. Try a piece of pizza bianca, a flat bread resembling foccia. Fast food is becoming increasingly popular in Rome. There are McDonald's outlets throughout the city as well as numerous other chain restaurants and US-style hamburger joints. But seriously, why would you bother when you can pick up a delicious slice of pizza from one of the many pizza a taglio or pizza rustica outlets.
Eating Customs Italians rarely eat a sit-down colazione (breakfast). They tend to drink a cappuccino, usually tiepido (warm) with a cornetto (croissant) or other type of pastry while standing at a bar. Pranzo (lunch) is traditionally the main meal of the day and many shops and businesses close for three to four hours every afternoon to accommodate the meal and siesta which is supposed to follow. A full meal will consist of antipasto, which can vary from bruschetta (a type of garlic bread with various toppings) to fried vegetables or prosciutto e melone (cured ham wrapped around melon). Next comes the primo piatto (first plate) - a pasta or risotto - followed by the secondo piatto of meat or fish. Italians often then eat an insalata (salad) or contorno (vegetable side dish) and round off the meal with fruit, or occasionally with a sweet, and caffè, often at a bar on the way back to work. The cena (evening meal) is traditionally a simpler affair, but habits are changing because of the inconvenience of travelling home for lunch every day.
Vegetarian
Vegetarians will have no problems eating in Rome. While there are only a few restaurants devoted to them, vegetables are a staple of the Italian diet. Most eating establishments serve a good selection of antipasto and contorni prepared in a variety of ways and salads. Most traditional Roman pasta dishes are suitable for vegetarians. Other dishes to look out for are: pasta e fagioli, a thick soup made with borlotti beans and pasta; pasta al pesto, pasta with basil, parmesan, pine nuts and olive oil; and orecchiette ai broccoletti, ear-shaped pasta with a broccoli sauce, often quite spicy. Risotto is usually a good choice, although sometimes it is made with a meat or chicken stock.
Self-Catering
If you have access to cooking facilities, it is best to buy fresh fruit and vegetables at open markets, and prosciutto, salami, cheese and wine at alimentari or salumerie, which are a cross between grocery stores and delicatessens. Fresh bread is available at a forno or panetteria (bakeries which sell bread, pastries and sometimes groceries) and usually at alimentari. Latterie sell milk, yoghurt and cheese. Some bars also sell milk and dairy products.
